Summer Solstice in Chaco Canyon

A window to the sky By Lawrence Spohn

A thousand years later, folks still flock to Chaco Canyon National Park to witness the summer solstice.

They watched the window-shaped beacon of sunlight inch down and across the curved rock wall, mirroring the sun’s path up and across the cobalt sky that draped over the canyon walls. Eventually, the solar beacon rested almost perfectly within a similarly shaped internal cove, or niche, on the wall opposite the window. So began summer solstice 2004 – exactly as it did a thousand years ago here at the height the Chacoan Culture, which reigned from about 850 to 1150.

The window and niche, archaeo-astronomers believe, are among many astronomical markers that the observationally astute Chacoans created to mark the passage of time on a seasonal basis. Archaeologists say the markers – including an impressive, moving sun-dagger of light discovered atop Fajada Butte – likely were used to regulate the ancient Indian society and culture – perhaps everything from religion and civil ceremonies to agricultural practices.

More and more, researchers are discovering evidence in the canyon ruins that suggest Chacoans built their muti-room, multi-story buildings – one the size of the ancient Roman Coliseum – along lines traced through the canyon by the seasonal passages of the sun and moon. While much remains speculative, some scientists argue proof is mounting that the elaborate astronomical design was implemented over centuries, suggesting an extensive and provocative, long-term architectural master plan.

Trapping in New Mexico Email alert

Did you know that it is legal in New Mexico for trappers to place leg-hold traps and strangling snares on public land? This is land where anyone can be. There are no warnings posted and each trapper can place out and set an unlimited number of these hidden devices and can club to death an unlimited number of furbearing victims. Pelt prices are on the rise so trappers are setting more traps and if you use public lands your chance of an unpleasant encounter is on the rise too. Legal traps may be large enough to close on a human foot and certainly frequently close on our companion dogs’ feet. Game department officials are strangely unconcerned about this situation and believe that the relatively few trappers have a greater right to their activity than unsuspecting recreation users.

We are beginning a historic effort to see that leg-hold traps and snares are prohibited from public land in New Mexico. The Department of Game and Fish is accepting comments on trapping regulations and needs to hear from concerned hikers, campers, wildlife watchers, dog owners and responsible hunters. The Department needs to know that the public would rather have a chance to see a live bobcat or fox than to encounter a leg-hold trap or snare on public land. And also that current regulations allowing trappers to set unlimited numbers of traps and kill unlimited numbers of animals is poor wildlife management policy. Moreover, the toll on unintended wildlife including endangered species, which must be destroyed or which are released only to die later from trap sustained injury, is unacceptable.

Please send your comments along with your name and address urging the end of trapping on public land in New Mexico to notraps@gilanet.com and we will see to it that the director of the game department along with each of the seven game commissioners gets a copy. We need your letters by July 10. Please write today and urge people you know to do the same.

Points to include in your letter:

* Body crushing traps and snares should be prohibited on public lands in New Mexico as they are in Arizona.

* Most animals caught in body-gripping traps react to the pain and trauma by frantically struggling against the trap in an attempt to free themselves. These animals frequently sustain fractures, ripped tendons, and/or tooth and mouth damage from chewing and biting at the trap. Some animals even chew or twist off their trapped limb trying to escape. It would violate most state humane laws to treat a domestic dog or cat in the same manner.

* Neck snares, leghold traps, and Conibear kill-traps regularly catch non-target animals, posing a significant hazard to domestic animals as well as threatened and endangered species.

* Because of their inherently indiscriminate nature and regulations which allow unlimited take, body-gripping traps are not an ecologically sound, or humane, method for wildlife “management.”

* The vast majority of New Mexico residents and public land users do not trap. According to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Services, approximately 35% of New Mexico residents participate in non-consumptive wildlife activities (such as watching and photographing wildlife) and less than 1% (.03%) trap. While many trappers hunt, the vast majority of hunters do not trap. Trapping is not considered “fair chase” by the Boone and Crockett club, an organization founded by Theodore Roosevelt to promote wildlife conservation and ethical hunting.

* More than 80 countries have banned leghold traps, including all member-nations of the European Union.

* The American Veterinary Medical Association, the American Animal Hospital Association, and the National Animal Control Association have all deemed the leghold trap “inhumane.” The National Animal Control Association has also deemed the snare inhumane and recommends against its use.

Ah, Wilderness!: Death of a Bobcat by Mary Katherine Ray, Winston, NM

”I found a dead bobcat a few weeks ago. The furry corpse couldn’t have been dead long. … Even in death, I think she was one of the most beautiful animals I have ever seen.”

Budget Cuts Hurt Chaco (and more)

U.S. must polish up on national treasures’ value (Editorial)

Among the cuts suggested to park superintendents: closing visitor centers or parks on holidays or Sundays; eliminating guided ranger tours; or forgoing lifeguards at beaches. This is another unfortunate and close-to-home example of how this administration promises one thing but does another.

Seven of 388 national parks are in New Mexico. One – Chaco Culture National Historical Park – is among several that the private, nonpartisan National Parks Conservation Association said recently is in particular jeopardy.

The group reported last month that there is insufficient money at Chaco to protect some of the ancient pueblo’s structures.

Wilcox Ranch in Range Creek, Central Utah

State unveils prehistory treasure trove By Joe Bauman and Ray Boren, Deseret Morning News

location of Wilcox Ranch and Range CreekAn estimated 2,000 to 5,000 archaeological sites, most in excellent condition, are located on the newly acquired property; more are being discovered up and down the canyon. About 1,350 acres are part of the immediate Wilcox ranch, a verdant farmstead straddling remote Range Creek, a tributary of the Green River, while another 3,000 acres are on a nearby plateau. …

According to state experts, the Range Creek property is not only an incredible archaeological resource, it is also a wildlife haven, with wild turkey, eagles, hawks, bears, cougars, elk, deer, bighorn sheep and other important species. The creek itself could be developed as a blue-ribbon trout fishery. …

Part of the Desolation Canyon Wilderness Area is accessible above the mouth of Range Creek, near its confluence with the Green River. …

Much of Range Creek, with its year-round stream, open canyon floor and dramatically steep and colorful cliffs, is believed to have been inhabited a thousand years ago by pre-Columbian cultures that archaeologists call the Fremont and the Anasazi. Three radiocarbon tests carried out so far date village and rock shelter sites to between 1000 A.D. and 1200 A.D. An analysis of projectile points and pottery, using dates of known styles, shows the same range.

The finds include individual pit houses, villages, arrowheads, shafts, granaries, pottery, basketry and scattered rock art, the latter often representing otherworldly human figures, pecked spirals and sheep figures. …

The sites are the way that those of the famous Nine Mile Canyon, about 20 miles away, must have been like 150 years ago, before they were vandalized, he said. It is significant that Wilcox “took such pride in not letting people vandalize them.” …

“I didn’t let people go in there to destroy it,” the 74-year-old Waldo Wilcox told the Associated Press. “The less people know about this, the better.”

America’s 11 Most Endangered Historic Places 2003

Located in a remote part of Utah, Nine Mile Canyon is often called ”the world’s longest art gallery” as it contains more than 10,000 images carved onto canyon walls by Native Americans.

Google Search: Wilcox Ranch

Some Ancestral Puebloan Names

Hopi Food & Agriculture Symposium By Somana Yaiva, Navajo-Hopi Observer

The Hopi Tribal Department of Natural Resources Planner, Micah Loma’omvaya, gave a very informative presentation on land management practices in the past and a brief overview of ethno-botanical research techniques and how they can benefit Hopi farmers.

”When we look at the practice of Hopi farming we must recognize the ancient origins of this technology in the many prehistoric sites of the Southwest and beyond,” he said. ”Archaeology and archaeobotany provide a window of opportunity to view and understand the practices of our ancestors in farming and plant use in various environments.

”The Hopi have benefited from the technology and knowledge developed by our ancestors known to the field of archaeology by various archaeological complexes named the Anasazi, Sinagua, Salado, Hohokam, Hakataya, Mogollon, etc. but all known to the Hopi as the ‘Hisatsinom,’ (Our People of Long Ago).”

This is the first time I’ve seen the name ”Hakataya” (for what that’s worth). Many New Mexico Pueblos also have kinship with the ”Ancestral Puebloans.”

By the way, www.navajohopiobserver.com makes for interesting reading from time to time. mjh

Solstice Markers

Groundwork was laid in the stars By SETH MULLER

Near the Crack-in-the-Rock pueblo in Flagstaff’s Wupatki National Monument, a formation known as Calendar Wall has a portal. When the sun is halfway between the equinox and the solstice in November and February, the sun appears at the portal’s center. …

[A] ruin [in Chaco Canyon] known as the Great House of Wijiji has an alignment with a notch in front of the eastern horizon. Two weeks before the winter solstice the sun rises at the north corner of the notch, and two weeks later it’s at the south end of the notch.

Researchers believe a ”sunwatcher” would gather important information from such markers in order to determine preparation times for ceremonial events or agricultural activities. Wijiji is one of many structures at Chaco that has formations demarcating the seasons.

Continental Divide Trail Alliance

Continental Divide TrailContinental Divide Trail Alliance

In 1978, Congress made a monumental decision, one that secured the future of the most scenic, wild and remote landscapes in America. They designated the Continental Divide National Scenic Trail (CDT), also known as the ”King of Trails.”

The vision for the CDT is a 3,100-mile primitive and challenging backcountry trail from Canada to Mexico along the backbone of America. Approximately 70% of the Trail is usable. However, many of those miles are in desperate need of repair, rerouting for sustainability, or removed from roads and motorized trails.

The Continental Divide Trail Alliance (CDTA) is a group of dedicated conservation-minded outdoor enthusiasts, committed to seeing the Continental Divide Trail through to its full completion, to its last charted mile, and to the continued care of this great natural wonder for future generations.

In some states, the CDT follows more than one route. In New Mexico, there is active opposition to the trail from people who feel it threatens their property rights. mjh

Fremont Indian State Park, Utah

Park offers glimpse of mysterious Fremont culture By Mark Havnes , The Salt Lake Tribune

Opened in 1987, [Fremont Indian State Park and Museum] sits on 889 acres 17 miles south of Richfield, [Utah], just off Interstate 70. It boasts a museum, a visitor center and trails that wind among the ancient rock art whose meanings remain as elusive as the people who carved them.

”This is the location of the largest Fremont village ever excavated,” explains park archaeologist Dee Hardy, pointing across I-70 to a hill known as Five Finger Ridge.

Hardy says 106 structures — including pit houses and granaries — were documented then destroyed in 1985 and ’86 during construction of the freeway. The project included removing a large segment of the ridge and rerouting Clear Creek, which helped sustain the settlement of about 200 people at the height of the Fremont culture between A.D. 900 and 1250.

Hardy notes the Fremont were not identified as a separate culture until 1928 when a pit house and pottery were found near present-day Capitol Reef National Park. Scientists named the culture after the Fremont River, which runs near that find, although the ancient people occupied most of Utah — except the southeastern part, which was dominated by the Anasazi.

About the park

* Extra attractions Fremont Indian State Park and Museum offers a museum store, amphitheater, picnic areas, hiking and biking trails, fishing and overnight camping.

* Hours 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., Memorial to Labor Day weekends. Winter Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day.

* Fees $1 per person or $5 per vehicle.

* Events June 5, Annual Atlatl Competition for adults and youths ages 6-15; Aug. 21, park’s 17th anniversary featuring a variety of activities and presentations; September, pottery-making workshops (dates to
be announced).

* Contact information 435-527-4631

* On the Web http://www.stateparks.utah.gov/park_pages/fremont.htm; or e-mail at fremontindian@utah.gov or parkcomment@utah.gov

Bandelier National Monument, New Mexico

Every visitor to New Mexico should drive the route from I-25 at Bernalillo through San Ysidro (turn on NM4 here), up the redrock canyon past Jemez Pueblo and Jemez Springs, via the Valle Grande to descend Frijoles Canyon to Bandelier National Monument. Take your time to enjoy the hummingbirds and ruins. On leaving, you may want to continue north past Los Alamos, entering Santa Fe from the North. This is a half-day (or more) drive through some of the most beautiful landscape in New Mexico, giving you a great sense of the variety from high mesa to mountains to canyons. You may want to return from Santa Fe to Albuquerque down old NM 14 through the mining towns of Golden and Madrid, along the East Mountains. If you have any time and strength left, turn up the road to the Sandia Crest. The quintessential New Mexico loop. mjh

Ruins in Civilization By James Abarr, For the Journal

Beginning in about A.D. 1150, bands of the Anasazi moved into the deep canyons and onto the forested mesas to settle [on the Pajarito Plateau, northwest of Santa Fe, New Mexico]. At first, they lived in small settlements of perhaps one or two extended families, but as the population grew, fed by refugees from the dying pueblo centers of the Four Corners area, they came together in larger communities and their dwellings changed. …

On the floor of Frijoles Canyon, the focal point of today’s national monument, they built the showpiece of their culture— the multi-storied pueblo of Tyuonyi. (This circular community, once standing two stories high, graces the floor of the canyon and once contained more than 300 rooms. Tree-ring samples from roof beams place the period of greatest occupancy between 1383 and 1466, a time of much building in the canyon.)…

Archaeologists believe a series of factors combined to make life untenable for the Pajaritans— extended drought, over-population, depleted soils from centuries of farming and a general depletion of resources.

Today, the people of Cochiti and San Ildefonso pueblos, on the southern edge of the plateau, are their descendants. …

Although the monument encompasses 40 square miles of forests, steep-walled mesas and plunging canyons, its focal point is Frijoles Canyon. This two-mile-long slash in the volcanic tuff, carved over centuries by El Rito de Los Frijoles (Bean Creek), holds Bandelier’s best known and most accessible ruins. …

Farther up canyon is impressive Long House, a combination of cave and masonry dwellings 800 feet long. Standing against the 150-foot-high north wall of the canyon, the unique dwelling is a series of cave units, cave kivas and storage areas incorporated into a community of 300 rooms.

A mile up Frijoles Canyon from the Visitor Center is the Ceremonial Cave. Under the shelter of a rock overhang, 150 feet above the canyon floor, the impressive cave, reached by a series of ladders, contains masonry dwellings and a restored kiva.

Hundreds of reminders of the Pajaritan culture lie outside Frijoles Canyon in Bandelier’s rugged back country and are accessible only by foot trails.

Two of the best-known sites are the Stone Lions and the Painted Cave.


WHAT: Bandelier National Monument, administered by the National Park Service, U.S. Department of the Interior; telephone: Visitor Center, (505) 672-3861, Ext. 517; group reservations: (505) 672-3861, Ext. 534.

WHERE: 45 miles northwest of Santa Fe via U.S. 285-84 north to Pojoaque and west via N.M. 502 and N.M. 4 to the entrance.

FEES: $10 a car.

HOURS: Memorial Day to Labor Day, 8 a.m.-6 p.m. Remainder of year, 9 a.m.-5:30 p.m. Closed Christmas, New Year’s and Thanksgiving.

PARKING: Because of space limitations, trailers are not allowed in Frijoles Canyon. They must be left at Juniper Campground near monument entrance off N.M. 4. Auto parking in main lot at Visitor Center is limited. Visitors may encounter a wait of up to one hour in summer months and on holidays.

CAMPING: Juniper Campground is available at $10 a day. Group camping is provided at Ponderosa Campground at $35 a day.

If you go
FACILITIES:

Visitor Center provides information, guidebooks and orientation slide show. Museum presents exhibits on centuries of Pueblo culture. A book store, gift shop and snack bar also are available.

An easy paved trail, beginning at the Visitor Center, provides access to the nearby Pueblo of Tyuonyi, Sun House, Long House and other archaeological sites in Frijoles Canyon.

Permits are required for access to the 70 miles of trails into Bandelier’s rugged backcountry and wilderness areas. They are available at the Visitor Center at no charge.

Picnic area is provided near the Visitor Center.

Homolovi Ruins State Park, Arizona

Homolovi Ruins By Carrie White, Tribune

Homolovi Ruins is at 4,900 feet elevation on the Little Colorado River, an area rich with wildlife. A Hopi word meaning ”place of the little hills,” Homolovi consists of four major pueblo sites believed to have been occupied by the Anasazi between 1200 and 1425.

Archaeologists work the site every weekday in June and July for insight into the migration period of the Hopi people, who count the area as part of their homeland and continue to use it as a pilgrimage destination. The ruins became a state park in 1986.

Picnicking is permitted and there are 52 tent and RV sites with electric hookups and a dump station. Showers are available year-round, and water hookups are available through September.

Park entry costs $5 for a car with four adults. The state park is open sunrise to sunset; visitors center hours are 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.

GETTING THERE
Homolovi Ruins State Park is about three hours from the East Valley. Take Interstate 17 north to Flagstaff. Take Interstate 40 east to Winslow, about 56 miles. The park can be reached by traveling five miles northeast from Winslow on state Highway 87.

Homolovi Ruins State Park (official website)

I chanced upon Homolovi Ruins one January on my way to Flagstaff, AZ. These are not spectacular ruins (see Wupatki National Monument, north of Flagstaff, for something more spectacular), but they are interesting and the location is quite something. Walnut Canyon to the west gets more attention, but I think this was at least as interesting. mjh

Utah’s State Route 12

Close to Home: Short on travelin’ time By Tom Wharton, The Salt Lake Tribune

My best advice to those wanting to enjoy glimpses of Utah’s top scenery is to drive state Route 12, a 124-mile route that connects U.S. 89, 7 miles south of Panguitch, with state Route 24 in Torrey.

Along the way, motorists travel through a variety of ecological zones, from sun-baked desert canyons to cool alpine forests almost 9,000 feet above sea level. They pass through Bryce Canyon National Park, Dixie National Forest, Anasazi and Escalante state parks, the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and a variety of fascinating rural towns.

The road also provides nearby access to places such as Tropoic Reservoir, Kodachrome Basin State Park, Capitol Reef National Park, the Box Death Hollow Wilderness Area, the Hole in the Rock Road and Hell’s Backbone.

State Route 12 has been designated as an All-American Road. … According to the U.S. Department of Transportation, All-American Roads ”provide visitors with a unique driving experience and are considered destinations unto themselves. They provide an exceptional traveling experience such that motorists go to these highways as a primary reason for their trip.”

That description certainly fits Route 12, which also has been honored by Car and Driver magazine as one of the top 10 scenic drives in the nation.

Canyons of the Ancients, Colorado

Q: Would you suggest exploring canyons of the ancients via backpacking or car camping ??? thanks. j

I don’t think there’s much of a real system of trails in the area of Canyons of the Ancients. But if you don’t mind backpacking along some dirt roads, you might be able to make it work. The area is also a patchwork of public & private land — you’ll need to study some topographic maps. It’s a funny area, neither wilderness nor recreationally developed.

As for car-camping, I have camped in the nice campground at Hovenweep, off of a couple of dirt roads and northeast of there in the La Sal Mountains (UT-CO border). Any way you do it, it’s worth the visit. mjh

Search blog for more on Canyons of the Ancients

A Long (Hot) Weekend in Chaco

Q: I’m very keen to drive up to Chaco, which I know you’re a big fan of. Any recommendations on how to spend a long weekend up yonder? — PB

PB-

All the ruins I’ve seen in the Four Corners are unique and fascinating. Still, Chaco tops everything (and I would understand anyone saying, ‘no, it’s Mesa Verde’ or Hovenweap or Montezuma’s Castle, etc).

I think the way to do it is to plan to camp in the campground at Chaco at least two nights (though many people do it all in one long day trip). On weekends, the CG tends to fill-up, especially in summer (which is a crazy time to be there). Try to get to the CG by early afternoon on a Friday (mid-week is really better) — stop at the CG first and get your spot (it’s 3 to 4 hours from Albuquerque). After the CG, visit the Visitors Center; look at the glorious 3D map. You’ll visit all the ruins along the main 8-mile loop road (“Downtown Chaco,” some say) — one can do that in a few hours or a few days. Eventually, you should hit one of the backcountry ruins — start early in the day; Wijiji is easiest (flattest route); Pueblo Peñasco is farthest; Tsin Kletsin may be least impressive, but a really neat hike if you loop through South Gap — great vistas at the beginning and end of that loop. If one could only do one backcountry ruin, it probably should be Pueblo Alto for the combination of terrain, vistas and ruins.

I will be very happy to answer any questions or offer more advice. I have lots of thoughts about things to see outside of Chaco Canyon (outliers, etc). And I look forward to your photos and blog entry. mjh

See also:
www.mjhinton.com/chaco/
www.mjhinton.com/outliers/