Category Archives: Anasazi

The Ancestral Puebloans

Treading lightly in Oak Tree House, Mesa Verde, Colorado

Treading lightly in Oak Tree House By By DAVE BUCHANAN The Daily Sentinel

This particular ranger-led tour is a 90-minute out-and-back trip to Oak Tree House, which had been excavated from 1915 to 1921 by Jesse Fewkes for the Smithsonian Institute after earlier excavating Spruce Tree House in 1908 and Cliff Palace in 1909. Oak Tree House, named for a massive oak tree which since has fallen, has been closed to the public since the early 1930s.

This summer, ranger-led hikes to Oak Tree House and Mug House, which the park never has opened to public tours, will be offered on an advance registration-only basis….

Oak Tree House, like nearly all of the 600 or so known cliff dwellings in the park, is found in a shallow cave eroded by groundwater percolating through a massive layer of Cliffhouse Sandstone. It’s the topmost layer of the Mesa Verde group of shoreline sediments laid down more than 65 million years ago. …

Why did people ignore these caves for most of their occupation of Mesa Verde? Of the more than 4,500 dwellings identified in the park, only 600 or so are cliff dwellings, and their occupancy dates only from the last century the people lived here.

No one knows for sure, but some educated guesses suppose that at its peak, the local population reached nearly 3,000 and there was a growing demand to find new places to live, new resources to exploit, or perhaps new enemies to avoid.

An even bigger question is, why did they leave?

The Great Drought of 1276-1299 certainly had some impact. Perhaps overpopulation, caused in part by better nutrition as farming techniques improved, had a part, or even disease resulting from living in close quarters with tamed turkeys and dogs.

Around 1300, the residents suddenly abandoned these elaborate cliff dwellings and migrated south to the Rio Grande Valley of New Mexico and to one region of northern Arizona.

Today, 24 American Indian tribes claim some connection to the people who lived in Mesa Verde.

When the environment could no longer sustain the Ancestral Puebloans, it forced total emigration, said Jim Judge, professor emeritus at Fort Lewis College in Durango.

New Mexico’s Chaco Canyon: A Place of Kings and Palaces?

photo of Pueblo Bonito in Chaco Canyon, New MexicoNew Mexico’s Chaco Canyon: A Place of Kings and Palaces?

BOULDER, Colo., June 5 (AScribe Newswire) — Kings living in palaces may have ruled New Mexico’s Chaco Canyon a thousand years ago, causing Pueblo people to reject the brawny, top-down politics in the centuries that followed, according to a University of Colorado at Boulder archaeologist.

University of Colorado Museum anthropology Curator Steve Lekson, who has studied Chaco Canyon for several decades, said one argument for royalty comes from the rich, crypt-style burials of two men discovered deep in a Chaco Canyon “great house” known as Pueblo Bonito several decades ago. They were interred about A.D. 1050 with a wealth of burial goods in Pueblo Bonito, a 600-room, four-story structure that was considered to be the center of the Chaco world, he said.

Archaeologists have long been in awe of the manpower required to build Chaco’s elaborate structures and road systems, which required laborious masonry work, extended excavation and the transport of staggering amounts of lumber from forests 50 miles distant, he said. The scale of the architecture and backbreaking work undertaken for several centuries suggests a powerful centralized authority, said Lekson, curator of anthropology at the University of Colorado Museum.

“I don’t think Chaco was a big happy barn-raising,” said Lekson, chief editor of Archaeology Of Chaco Canyon: An Eleventh Century Pueblo Regional Center,” [Amazon link] published in April 2006 by the School of American Research Press in Santa Fe, N.M. “Things were probably quite a bit grimmer than some have imagined.”

“Kingship” developed in Mesoamerica about 2,000 years before Chaco, Lekson said, and kings quickly became a constant on the political landscape. “It’s not remarkable that there were small-scale kings and states at Chaco in A.D. 1100,” he said. “What is remarkable is that it took the Southwest so long to get around to it.”

Located in northern New Mexico, Chaco Canyon was the hub of the Pueblo culture from about A.D. 850 to 1150 and is believed to have held political sway over an area twice the size of present-day Ohio. A center of ceremony and trade, the canyon is marked by 11 great houses oriented in solar, lunar and cardinal directions with roads that appear to have connected Chaco to outlying Pueblo communities.

Researchers have long pondered how Chaco rulers wielded control over outlying Pueblo communities in present day Utah, Arizona and Colorado, he said. Such “outliers,” located up to 150 miles away, would have required that visitors from Chaco walk up to eight days straight in order to reach them, said Lekson, who is also a CU-Boulder anthropology professor.

The answer may lie in the clarity of the Southwestern skies, the open landscape and the broad vistas that created an efficient “line-of-site” system, he said. “Chaco people could see Farview House at Mesa Verde, for example, and Farview could see Chaco,” he said. “I think similar linkages will be found between Chaco and the most distant outliers in all directions in the coming years.”‘

The roads, some as wide as four-lane highways, may have been used for ceremonial pilgrimages by priests and their followers, Lekson said. “They also could have been used by troops, tax collectors and inquisitors,” he said.

Funded by the National Park Service and CU-Boulder, the new book is a collaboration of more than 30 years of fieldwork by hundreds of researchers and students, many of whom participated in a massive NPS Chaco excavation from 1971 to 1982. Scores of academics met around the Southwest during the past several years, discussing the most recent research and latest theories regarding Chaco for the book.

The Archaeology of Chaco Canyon explores the natural environment and architecture, as well as Chaco’s economy, politics, history and regional influences. The authors also look at outside cultural influences from all directions, including ties to Mesoamerica, said Lekson. Twenty authors contributed to the book, including Lekson, CU Museum Director Linda Cordell, CU-Boulder anthropology doctoral student Derek Hamilton and Richard Wilshusen, who received his doctorate from CU-Boulder.

Lekson estimates that 95 percent of the Chaco people lived in small pueblos, while an elite 5 percent lived in the great houses. Pueblo Bonito and the other Chaco great houses were “tall, empty monuments” that could have been used for a variety of activities, from ceremonies and storage to inns and even slave cells, he said.

The culture’s architecture and settlement patterns changed dramatically in the region about 1300, when sites begin to look more like modern Pueblos.

“Chaco has been characterized in oral histories as a wonderful, awful place where people got power over other people,” Lekson said. “Later Pueblo cultures in the region did not develop from Chaco, but rather represent a reaction against it, with people distancing themselves from a bad experience.”

CONTACT: Steve Lekson, 303-492-6671, lekson@colorado.edu

Campfires Banned at Chaco

ABQjournal: Around New Mexico

CHACO CULTURE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK— Campfires are prohibited under new fire restrictions in effect for Chaco Culture National Historical Park.

Charcoal grills at the National Park Service’s campsites and pressurized liquid or gas stoves at campgrounds are allowed.

The restrictions, which went into effect Friday, also prohibit smoking except in vehicles equipped with ashtrays or on paved or graveled parking lots and roads clear of vegetation for at least 3 feet around.

How Much Time Does Chaco Take?

I really appreciate your take on Chaco. It’s been one of my “life goals” to visit it for years, and I plan on doing so in early June. I want to have enough time to appreciate it, but I’m traveling with my two teenagers, who are great in the outdoors but will tolerate only so much “down time.” In your opinion, what’s the ideal number of days to take to visit Chaco and whatever outliers are significant to appreciating it? – K

Someone in a hurry could visit each of the ruins along the loop road in Chaco in a few hours.

With an overnight stay in the campground, you could also plan on one or more of the “backcountry” ruins that involve some hiking (in the desert with no shade). Of those backcountry hikes, Wijiji near the campground may be the easiest (no climbing at all; perhaps a couple of miles each way).

With at least two nights in the campground, you might walk all the backcountry trails.

The longest backcountry hike is to Pueblo Peñasco. It is a magnificent ruin with famous pictographs on a spur trail, but the bulk of that hike is most likely to bore or exhaust some folks. It’s a long hot sandy hike.

If you were only going to do one backcountry hike, perhaps it should be north to Pueblo Alto; that involves scrambling up a rocky crack to get to the mesa, which in turn immediately gives you great views of several ruins in the canyon.

As for outliers beyond the canyon, Pueblo Pintado is the easiest to reach on your way in or out via one of the south roads. Some may see it as “more of the same,” but it helps us appreciate that these communities covered a lot of territory.

I have pictures on my outliers pages of some of the other outliers that are within a few hours of Chaco, but each is harder to find. It’s hard to know how much is enough for someone else.

Back to the original question, I think at least two nights at the campground give you lots of options.

Feel free to write again anytime. Let me know how the trip turns out. mjh

Two Books Exploring Anasazi

Salt Lake Tribune – Trailing the Anasazi By Brett Prettyman, The Salt Lake Tribune

During a trip to Grand Gulch in southeastern Utah in 1987, Roberts was able to again experience the wonder of the ancient people whom he calls Anasazi. (Roberts explains in detail in the book why he uses that name instead of “Ancestral Puebloans,” which many archaeologists now use). The inspiration eventually led to two books focusing on the Anasazi, including the recently released Sandstone Spine: Seeking the Anasazi on the First Traverse of the Comb Ridge. …

His first book on the Anasazi in 1997, In Search of the Old Ones: Exploring the Anasazi World of the Southwest, only caused Roberts to crave more knowledge on the subject. …

Perhaps no book captures that notion of exploring the Anasazi on their own turf more than his new one, which recounts an 18-day journey in 2004 in a wild and remote area on the Utah and Arizona border.

Horseback Riding in the Canyon De Chelly

Riding in the Canyon De Chelly By Elzy Kolb

Horseback camping in the Canyon de Chelly National Monument on the Navajo reservation in northeastern Arizona offers a real change of pace. Once you’re out on the trail, there’s no electricity, running water, or cell-phone service. There are also no clocks or schedules, unless you bring your own.

What the canyon does have is more than 100 miles of riding trails through glorious red-rock canyons full of Anasazi ruins and petroglyphs, or rock carvings and inscriptions. In a wet year, the canyon’s streams create swimming holes perfect for a refreshing splash, and the desert is abloom with purple tamarisk bushes, yellow and orange prickly-pear cactus flowers and white datura, the blossoms Georgia O’Keeffe often painted.

Sightseeing on horseback provides a unique perspective — a timeless sense of viewing the land the way our ancestors may have seen it. In addition, horses are capable of reaching pristine areas inaccessible by car. You travel far more slowly than you would on wheels, enabling relaxed and quiet contemplation of nature’s beauty. Sitting tall in the saddle, you have a higher vantage point than in a vehicle or on foot, and you also have the added advantage of covering distances in far less time than you would hiking.

Anasazi in the End

westword.com | News | Digging Deep
On Mesa Verde’s hundredth birthday, there’s still a lot of dirt behind the “Mystery of the Anasazi.” By Joel Warner

There’s not much new in this article but it is a good summary of recent conclusions regarding what may have happened among Ancestral Puebloans (aka Anasazi) before they moved on to become Puebloans. mjh

Chaco from Grants, New Mexico in a Day

Hi! I really enjoyed your sites. Could you comment on the relative insanity of driving from Grants (early), up the South route (Seven Lakes/ rt. 14) into Chaco (still open?), spending some time in Chaco, and leaving via the north road and staying at either the Post B&B or a little motel in Cuba. I’ll have an SUV. Thanks for any input and enjoy your travels. M.

M-

I’m assuming Seven Lakes Rd is the old original South Road (aka 57); I drove it about a month ago and it was OK though rugged.

I think you can get in from Grants and out in a day and enjoy seeing the ruins. Look on the map for a route from Grants via Milan (may be 53/506) — that’s the most direct way up from Grants and a nice route. When you hit BIA/Navajo 9, turn left/west for about 10 miles or so to hit the south road.

I don’t know anything useful about the Post B&B. As for Cuba, you’d think there’d be some motels or B&B’s there, but I can’t remember ever noticing any.

Assuming you’re returning to Abq, you could start your trip up 550/44 via Cuba and go beyond Chaco to Aztec — various hotels & B&B’s there. Then you could see Aztec Ruins and Salmon Ruins. From Aztec you could go to Chaco via the north road and *out* via the south and down to Grants for the next night.

Not that I mean to rewrite your plans for you. mjh

Chaco Canyon Service — Sierra Club Outing

Sierra Club Outings | Chaco Canyon Service, New Mexico | 06321A
June 24-July 1, 2006

I’m one of the co-leaders for a Sierra Club Service Trip which is in Chaco Canyon every year doing revegetation, building sun shades, taking out barbed wire fences, making and installing signs, repairing fences, harvesting seeds, planting trailhead markers, and being general dog’s bodies for the Park Service. We stay in the ‘VIP’ campground.

If any of your readers wants a different kind of experience I’d encourage them to contact the Sierra Club Outings section and sign up for a week of hard but very satisfying work in Chaco Canyon. Thanks, Al Webster

[mjh: only 2 spaces left out of 16.]

Navajo in Canyon de Chelly, Arizona

A Navajo Tale: Canyon de Chelly is home to stone-age history By LAURIE KAVENAUGH – Style Editor

The Thunderbird Lodge is the only motel within Canyon de Chelly National Monument. Navajo people own and operate the Thunderbird, its cafeteria and gift shop. The quaint adobe buildings spread out at the mouth of the canyon among cottonwoods planted in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. The complex sits just about where the first trading post was established in the 1880s. It was followed by a succession of trading post operators until the government hired a custodian in 1903 to keep an eye on the cliff dwellings down in the canyon.

By the end of the 19th century, tourists were paying to visit the dozens of cliff-house ruins left behind by the Anasazi, a Navajo word for “ancient enemies.” In the 20th century, archaeologists found evidence the canyon was probably a technology center for weaving. Today, the Navajo and the National Park Service work together to maintain the canyon. …

Canyon de Chelly is one of the few Anasazi sites in the Southwest that is still lived in by the Navajo. Although the Navajo arrived fairly late on the scene — sometime in the mid-to-late 1700s — they have had a rough time holding onto what they consider an ancestral home.

Paving Part of The North Road

We’re planning a trip to Chaco and Canyon de Chelly, hopefully a side trip to Crownpoint this coming October. Heard that the first few miles into Chaco were being improved? What did you find? — GB

G-

The north road from US 550 (formerly NM 44) around mile marker 112 is paved for about the first five miles (as 7900). That stretch dips and turns more than the rest of the road; the pavement is badly patched and potholed as I write this. When the road turns towards Chaco as 7950, the next 16 miles or so have been unpaved until right about now. At this time, the county is getting ready to pave one end for about 3 miles. I assume that will be done by the time you visit in October (good time of year, though it will be cold at night). I’ve heard the rest is less certain. At this time, expect a stretch of about 13 miles to still be dirt — dusty and washboardy, for sure, but not a problem for most cars unless it rains or snows around the time you drive.

peace, mjh

PS: There is some controversy over this paving; I have mixed feelings but mostly appreciate that Chaco isn’t easy to get to — it’s a sojourn; at least, the hard-core folks will still have the Old South Road to thrill us. If you feel strongly about this, or want learn more about why some people do, see www.dont-pave-chaco.com

ABQjournal: County Paving the Way to Chaco By Leslie Linthicum, Journal Staff Writer [Wednesday, August 3, 2005]

Tucked into a massive transportation bill that cleared Congress last week and is headed to the president’s desk is $800,000 that will settle once and for all a popular New Mexico campfire debate:

Should the road to Chaco Canyon be paved or not?

The road money is set aside to put chip seal— a cheaper-than-asphalt paving option— on the 16 miles of dirt road that lead to Chaco Culture National Historical Park.

If you’ve ever visited the spectacular Anasazi ruins at Chaco Canyon, you know the road and probably either love it or hate it. …

Each year about 80,000 people make their way to the park to walk where pre-Puebloan Indians walked hundreds of years before. …

With federal funds on the way, the county will then begin to tackle the remaining 13 miles next year, according to San Juan County Public Works Administrator Dave Keck.

“If we get the green light from everybody,” Keck said, “we’ll begin to pave (the remaining stretch) next spring.”

Test your knowledge of Mesa Verde

DenverPost.com – LIFESTYLES

1. Mesa Verde National Park was established in 1906. When were the ruins “discovered”? a) 1874 b) 1888 c) 1892

2. The Cliff Palace is the largest of the cliff dwellings. How big is it? a) as large as a city block b) as long as a football field c) about the size of a school gymnasium

3. About how many archaeological sites have been found in the park? a) 74 b) 649 c) 4,000

4. The park encompasses some 57,000 acres of federally owned land. What size is that in relation to Rocky Mountain National Park? a) one-fifth b) one-third c) two-thirds

5. Ancestral puebloans occupied the Mesa Verde area for about 750 years, from roughly 600 A.D. to 1300 A.D. Why did they leave? a) drought b) war c) religious reasons d) possibly all of the above

6. Square Tower House was originally named a) Peabody House b) Wetherill Manor c) Chapin Chapel

7. The first white man to enter a cliff dwelling was a) a rancher b) a prospector c) a photographer

8. The largest structures were typically built in rock alcoves facing a) north, thus providing shade b) south and east, to capture the sun’s warmth in winter c) west, to gain the maximum amount of daylight

9. The earliest inhabitants of the Mesa Verde region are known to have been excellent a) basketmakers b) potters c) masons d) all of the above

10. Mesa Verde gets about a half-million visitors per year. How popular is it compared with Rocky Mountain National Park? a) much less popular b) somewhat more popular c) just about as popular

ANSWERS: Continue reading Test your knowledge of Mesa Verde

Canyon de Chelly, Arizona

The canyon of many spirits by Mary Kirk-Anderson

First occupied by humans thousands of years ago, Canyon de Chelly is one of the longest continuously inhabited landscapes in North America…

Canyon de Chelly’s sheer walls, spectacular rock monoliths and fascinating connection with the native communities who have called it home, create a sense of a living place with more than simple geography to recommend it.

De Chelly (pronounced de Shay, from a corruption of tsegi, or rock canyon, the Navajo name for the area) is in Arizona’s north- eastern corner, in the Four Corners region, and lies within the great lands of the Navajo Nation. In 1931 it became a National Monument site and it is unique among National Park Service units in that it remains home to the canyon community and the NPS works in partnership with the Navajo Nation to manage the park resources. It is essentially private land. With the exception of one walking trail, the only way to enter the canyon is with a Navajo guide.

Made up of several gorges, the canyon is one of the longest continuously inhabited landscapes in North America, first occupied by the ancestral puebloans about 2000 years ago. Today, the steep walls preserve in remarkable condition easily viewed ancient ruins and rock paintings from as far back as the 12th century, tracing occupation of the canyon by the ancient Anasazi people, the Hopi tribe and latterly the Navajo, who arrived in the 1700s. …

Canyon de Chelly is about 115km north of the I40 Interstate between Albuquerque, New Mexico, and Flagstaff, Arizona. …

Two excellent rim drives, north and south, offer a series of spectacular overlooks.

Canyon De Chelly National Monument (National Park Service)